The History of Diamond Engagement Rings
The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance. A new book on one of the oldest traditions in jewelry.
Where does the story begin? Natural diamond engagement rings have long been an integral part of wedding traditions. Yet little is known about the origin story of the jewel. Some believe the ritual surrounding a diamond engagement ring took hold in modern times. Specifically, there is a misconception that it was a niche practice until 1947 when the De Beers “A Diamond Is Forever” advertising campaign was launched to promote it. In fact, diamond engagement rings were widespread by the turn of the 20th century. Beginning in 1890, Tiffany & Co. was a pioneer among all the jewelers selling diamond engagement rings. The New York establishment made it easy to shop for diamond engagement rings through mail-order catalogs including paper ring sizers that were sent to homes across America. By the 1920s, in Hollywood’s silent movie era, it’s clear diamond engagement rings were an easily understood narrative device used to advance the plot; they appeared in countless films. But diamond engagement rings go back much further in time. Once called betrothal rings, they have been steadily worn since the 15th century.
While it is generally believed that the first diamond engagement ring was the one given by Archduke Maximilian to Mary of Burgundy in 1477, based on a painting of the bride wearing the ring, it was not the first. There’s evidence that suggests the concept was already underway. One of the earliest diamond engagement rings linked to a specific twosome was the jewel Costanzo Sforza, Lord of Pesaro, presented to Camilla D’Aragona of Naples in May 1475. Their four-day-long wedding near the Adriatic Sea included a poem read during the nuptials that said, “Two wills, two hearts, two passions are bonded in one marriage by a diamond.”
The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance, a book by Marion Fasel that will be published in December 2024, traces the evolution of the style and the details that have remained a constant. From the beginning, the vast majority of diamond engagement rings focus on a central gem. The timeline of rings chronicles diamond-cutting techniques and trends through the ages. Designs framing the central diamond is work done in millimeters that’s often overlooked because of its miniature scale. Some ring styles come and go relatively quickly, while others have been around so long they seem eternal. There are also custom creations that are absolutely singular.
The diamond engagement rings of high-profile lovers have played a major role in the story from the beginning. Designs worn by women ranging from Eleanor Rosevelt to Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Barrett Browning to Elizabeth Taylor, Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Victoria Beckham and so many more contributed to the narrative. Many of their diamond engagement rings inspired others at the time they were received and some have been looked back at by generations for ideas.
Perhaps surprisingly, a diamond engagement ring doesn’t really have an official role in a couple’s union; that’s the job of the wedding band presented during the ceremony along with the proclamation, “With this ring, I thee wed.” The engagement ring is a thing of beauty, often paired with the proposal, “Will you marry me?” Sometimes it is chosen later. Whenever it comes, it represents a promise and a plan, literal hopes and dreams for a better future together as a couple.
“From the beginning, the vast majority of diamond engagement rings focus on a central gem. The timeline of rings chronicles diamond-cutting techniques and trends through the ages."
A tendency to subtly or flamboyantly show off a diamond engagement ring, particularly among the newly affianced, is one detail surrounding the jewel that has never changed. A 1543 portrait of the Duchess of Florence who wore her table cut diamond ring on her right forefinger, a 1931 photograph of Joan Crawford, and a series of pictures of Lady Gaga at the 2024 Venice International Film Festival document a few ways a diamond engagement ring has been publicly displayed through the ages. While each of the love stories behind these images and every romance is clearly unique, the constant of a diamond engagement ring symbolizing a union is proven to be one of the, if not the, most enduring traditions in jewelry.
